3 Weeks in the South

Day 1 - Queenstown

Nestled within alpine landscapes, Queenstown is an incredible natural playground offering everything from biking to hiking to tasting decadent food and wine. Set in leafy gardens just 10 minutes’ walk from downtown, quirky Creeksyde Holiday Park is an excellent base for exploration, starting with a ride up the Skyline Gondola. The panoramic views of Lake Wakatipu and surrounding peaks will help you get your bearings, while the legendary luge offers gravity-fuelled go-karting fun for all ages. That should get you into the Queenstown groove!

Back down at the lakefront, stroll around Queenstown Gardens – a tranquil sanctuary with shady trees, ornamental gardens, lawns for lounging, and lovely town and lake views. Round out your day at Steamer Wharf, a hotspot for Queenstown’s hospitality. For casual eats, check out Atlas Beer Café, a popular meeting place with good-value tacos and burgers alongside locally crafted beer.

Day 2 - Arrowtown & Gibbston

Cyclists of most abilities will find good times on the Queenstown Trails, a 130km network of mostly off-road trails offering spectacular sightseeing across the beautiful Wakatipu Basin. One of the easiest and most scenic sections starts at Arrowtown and meanders downstream to Gibbston Valley via the Arrow River Trail (2–3 hours/14km). The trail crosses the historic Kawarau Bridge – home to the world’s first bungy jump base – to enter the ‘Valley of Vines’ where a dozen or so cellar doors offer a chance to sample world-class pinot noir, bubbles, chardonnay and riesling. Many also offer platters and upmarket lunches, too. 

There are heaps of places to hire bikes (including ebikes) if you haven’t got your own, while plentiful local shuttles offer transport and emergency rescue if you’re too enthusiastic with the wine tasting. Non-cyclists can enjoy a similar sightseeing itinerary by car, best timed to avoid downtown Queenstown’s rush-hour.

 For evening relaxation, hop aboard the venerable steamship TSS Earnslaw for a twilight sailing or dinner cruise.

Day 3 - A scenic drive to Te Anau

Driving time: 2.5 hours/171km 

Start early and take your time to maximise the scenic drive through to Te Anau. With Lake Wakatipu behind you, you’ll pass through a series of sweet Southland settlements, some of which are stops along the Around the Mountains Cycle Trail. Pick up a map, head online or ask a local for advice on a wee ride or walk on this laidback trail: photogenic Fairlight Station, Garston’s Coffee Bomb and Athol Gallery and just a few potential pitstops.

Nestled in lake and mountain surrounds, Te Anau is the gateway to Fiordland and lays on lashings of local attractions, too. Get settled into one of three excellent holiday parks before taking a stroll along the lakefront and into town where you’ll find a variety of shops and plenty of places to dine.

Day 4 - Te Anau time

Learn more about Fiordland’s world heritage-listed landscapes and wildlife at the DOC visitor centre and bird sanctuary where you can even meet the remarkable takahē. Another enlightening entertainment is the film, Ata Whenua – Shadowland, regularly screened at Fiordland Cinema and an excellent option if the weather isn’t playing ball.

For bike riders, the easy Lake 2 Lake Trail (2–3 hours/28km one way) heads through to Lake Manapouri, often touted as the loveliest in New Zealand. Enjoy grand lake vistas, fragrant beech forest and the picturesque Waiau River along the trail, finishing at Frasers Beach which has good picnic spots and the chance for a cooling swim. Manapouri’s tiny township sports a coffee shop and pub, along with good browsing at Two Wee Bookshops. Head back to Te Anau on the same trail or make a 41km loop via quiet backroads. Local shuttles are available, too. 

If time allows, take the cruise across the lake to Te Anau Glowworms Caves, a twisting network of limestone passages with whirlpools, a roaring waterfall and thousands of glittering glowworms.

Day 5 - Te Anau to Cascade Creek

Driving time: 1 hour/75km

The road to Milford Sound in Fiordland National Park is one of New Zealand’s most scenic highways, so you’ll be glad you’re starting from Te Anau allowing you to go slow and spend more time outside your vehicle. It’s narrow, winding and busy in peak season, so check out these driving tips to help you stay safe. If you’re overnighting at Cascade Creek – which comes highly recommended – get your cafe fix and stock up on supplies before setting off.

Along the way, refer to a map and stop at the various dots for walks and photo-ops. The last DOC campsite before Milford Sound/Piopiotahi, Cascade Creek is basic, spacious and absolutely beaut. Set up camp then take a wander to Lake Gunn through red beech forest that’s home to the inquisitive South Island robin/kakaruwai. Wild swimmers will love the lake and rivers, while stargazers will be over the moon!

Day 6 - Milford Sound/Piopiotahi & around

Driving time: 3 hours/119km

Starting out from Cascade Creek will ensure you get the most of your day in and around Milford Sound/Piopiotahi, as well as giving you a head start on the traffic trucking in from Te Anau and Queenstown. You’ll need to book ahead for your boat tour. Various cruises offer easy sightseeing, but Rosco’s Milford Kayaks’ early morning guided trips offer more immersive experiences. Suitable for entry level paddlers, they give you the chance to get closer to the Sound’s bushy walls and waterfalls as well as wonderful wildlife including dolphins, seals, penguins and other rare birds.

With that bucket-list trip bagged, you can begin a slow journey back to Te Anau, stopping at various viewpoints and walks. Lake Marian and Key Summit are excellent options if you have a few spare hours and are happy to hike up high. Note the many other DOC camps along the Milford Road that offer a change of scenery and a chance to linger longer in this remarkable wilderness. Just remember the sandfly repellent.

Day 7 - Te Anau to Invercargill

Driving time: 2.5 hours/188km

Today’s journey takes you along the Southern Scenic Route from the Te Anau mountains to the south coast of Murihuku/Southland. As you set off, savour the last of the lakeland flavour with a stop at Lake Manapouri if you didn’t get there earlier.

The southern coast has plenty to stop you in your tracks, starting with wild Te Waewae Bay. At salty wee settlement of Orepuki, stop for a wander and fossick along the gemstone beach where you might spot garnet, jasper, quartz and nephrite, or more likely some surfer types out on the waves. Orepuki Beach Cafe makes a lovely lunch spot with its farm-to-table philosophy, seriously good seafood chowder and fabulous sweet treats.

Next up is Aparima/Riverton, a pretty seaside holiday spot straddling an estuary. Stop here for Te Hikoi, an excellent local museum, and a nosey around artists’ studios and vintage shops. It’s also home to Riverton Beachhouse, another great Southland cafe. More Southland culinary highlights can be found here.

For a peaceful, leafy place to park up, head to Invercargill Holiday Park and Motels on the outskirts of the city.

Day 8 - Invercargill

Spend the day exploring Invercargill, starting with Bill Richardson Transport World – an absolute must-visit whether you’re a petrol-head or not. This epic collection of more than 300 classic vehicles is complemented by artfully displayed memorabilia including jukeboxes, retro homeware and wearable art. A great cafe and shop round out the visit.

Spend the rest of the day noodling around the city, browsing its excellent op-shops and taking a stroll around the magnificently manicured Queens Park. Tuck into yet more hearty Southland fare at a bunch of terrific cafes including our favourite, The Batch. Invercargill locals swear by Fat Bastard’s Pies, too. 

If you’ve got time, visit historic Bluff, gateway for Rakiura Stewart Island and the go-to place for the classic Southern selfie under the Stirling Point signpost – it’s just 18,958km to London from there!

Worth a detour – Rakiura/Stewart Island

From Bluff and Invercargill you’re just an hour-long ferry journey or 20-minute flight from Rakiura Stewart Island, a life-changingly-amazing place to visit if you’ve got a few days (or more if you want to go on the Rakiura Track Great Walk).

A wonderland of rainforest, wetlands and remote coastline, it’s a haven for precious native birdlife including brown kiwi, kākā, penguins and countless seabirds. Among its many highlights are tours of Ulva Island/Te Wharawhara, fishing trips, kayaking, tramping, and getting to know the locals at the South Sea Hotel. At night, the island’s Dark Sky Sanctuary ­is one of the best places on the planet to see the stars and perhaps even the Aurora Australis.

Day 9 - Invercargill to Curio Bay, Catlins

Driving time: 1.5 hours/87km

Heading east of Invercargill you’re instantly into the inimitable Catlins – a quiet corner of Aotearoa New Zealand famous for windswept beaches, rugged cliffs, waterfalls and wonderful wildlife. The excellent Catlins touring map will help you choose your stops and activities along the way. 

Consider breaking up today’s journey with two short walks – Waipapa Point with its photogenic lighthouse and the possibility of sea lions snoozing on the beach; then Slope Point – the South Island’s southernmost point with epic ocean views and gnarled trees bent over by ferocious Antarctic winds.

Park up at Curio Bay’s beautifully back-to-basics campground with sites nestled into harakeke/flax groves. Then head out on foot to see such unusual sights as the fossilised Jurassic forest, 180 million years old. Keep your eyes on the horizon for some of the world’s rarest wildlife including the pint-sized Hector’s dolphin and the hoiho/yellow-eyed penguin. The wildlife-watching code provides guidelines for such encounters.

Day 10 - Curio Bay to Pounawea

Driving time: 1.5 hours/74km

Today’s short drive to Pounawea is packed with eye-popping sights. Freshen up on the short forest walk to McLean Falls, then head to nearby Cathedral Caves (depending on tide times; open Oct–May) to explore the sculpted cliffs. Just along the road is Papatowai’s Lost Gypsy Gallery, jam-packed with brilliantly bonkers automata upcycled from all kinds of foraged objects. Watch them whiz, whirl and spin then sit back with espresso and a scone from the Little Rocket cafe on site.

Back on the road, pause at Florence Hill Lookout before continuing to Pounawea Motor Camp, superbly located alongside the estuary and surrounded by native bush. Close out the day with a wander through the adjacent remnant forest and along the shore, keeping your eyes and ears open for kererū, korimako/bellbirds, spoonbill, godwits and more feathered friends.

Day 11 - Pounawea & around

Wake up to the sound of the sea and twittering birds and then plan your day according to the tides, which could start with a poke around Owaka, which has a terrific wee museum and a clutch of shops and cafes.

Jack’s Blowhole is booming when there’s a southerly swell and the tide is high, while spectacular Surat Bay is best reached between low and mid-tide. Surat Bay is home to rare Hooker’s sea lions which you may see sleeping on the beach – the massive bulls/whakahao weigh up to 450kg!

The three-tiered Purakaunui Falls is yet another wild sight, and if you’re out that way, continue on to Purakaunui Bay for salty scenes of crashing waves and sheer cliffs. Finish the day with a refreshing dip in the estuary back at camp.

Day 12 - Pounawea to Dunedin

Driving time: 2.5 hours/145km

There are a couple of great ways to break up today’s drive to Dunedin, starting with the short walk to the iconic Nugget Point Lighthouse dramatically perched on a rocky headland with views over rocky islets surrounded by swirling ocean.

The drive onward takes you into the Clutha district, named after New Zealand’s mightiest river that winds through its rolling, rural landscapes. If you have bikes, consider stopping at Waihola for a ride on the new section of Clutha Gold Trail which features some lovely wetland boardwalk and notable bridges on the way through to Milton (2–3 hours/34km return).

Just shy of Ōtepoti/Dunedin is Tunnel Beach where a short, sharp walk reveals a magnificent sea arch and a hand-hewn passage to a secluded beach surrounded by towering, fossil-filled cliffs. From here it’s a short drive to Leith Valley Holiday Park, a leafy oasis handily located for exploring the city with the bonus of bush tracks (with glowworms) out the back.

Worth a detour: Gore

One of inland Southland’s bigger towns and around an hour’s drive from either Invercargill or Balclutha, Gore has an eclectic mix of history, culture and rural charm. Take a walk back in time on the town’s heritage trail, then check out the astounding artworks at the Eastern Southland Gallery (a.k.a. ‘the Goreggenheim’), including several by Ralph Hotere. Lift your spirits at nearby Hokonui Moonshine Museum or take the short drive to the Croydon Aviation Heritage Centre to see restored vintage aircraft or even take to the skies in a Tiger Moth biplane.

Day 13 - Ōtepoti Dunedin city sights

With so many cultural and natural attractions you could easily spend a week in Ōtepoti Dunedin, but allow at least two days so you can enjoy at least one day in the city and one exploring the harbour and surrounds. Note the possibility of local produce at the Saturday Farmers’ Market if your timing is right.

From Leith Valley you can walk, bus or bike into town to see city’s highlights, which include Toitū Otago Settlers Museum, the beautifully restored Edwardian railway station, Dunedin Public Art Gallery, and some excellent independent shops and cafes around the Octagon and George Street. If the city’s street art takes your fancy, pick up the self-guided walking tour to do the rounds.

Late in the day, survey the city’s array of places to eat and drink or make a beeline to Emersons brewery/tap room. Of if you’ve still got gas in the tank, take an evening stroll in the Botanic Garden.

Day 14 - Otago Peninsula & Harbour

No visit to Ōtepoti Dunedin is complete without a foray on to Otago Peninsula, the hilly finger of land between the Pacific Ocean and the harbour. A popular option is to drive out to Taiaroa Head to see the world-famous Royal Albatross Centre, but there are many other notable nature tours and attractions including remarkable Larnach Castle.

Cyclists, however, can enjoy an unbeatable sightseeing tour via the wonderful Te Ata Ōtākau/Dunedin Cycleway that traces the edge of the harbour from historic Port Chalmers to Portobello on the Otago Peninsula, with a neat wee boat trip to close the loop. It strings together a brilliant array of sights, scenes, cafes and attractions making for an epic and unforgettable day out.

Day 15 - Ōtepoti Dunedin to Ōamaru

Driving time: 2 hours/116km

Today’s destination is Ōamaru. Around halfway there you’ll pass the turn-off to the wonderfully weird geological formations known as Moeraki Boulders, formed around 60 million years ago and an excellent excuse for a walk along this remote Pacific Ocean beach.

Arriving around midday in Ōamaru will allow enough time to explore the Victorian Precinct, wall to wall with limestone buildings. They house a cornucopia of atmospheric galleries, shops and eateries including Craftwork, an idiosyncratic nano-sized brewery specialising in Belgian-style ales. The must-visit around here is Steampunk HQ, a highly interactive collection of retro-futuristic, sci-fi art, movies, sculpture and sounds that will blow your mind and inspire a few photos, for sure. 

Another of Ōamaru’s claims to fame is the Blue Penguin Colony where you can see these cute pint-sized birds return after a day’s fishing. Park up for the night at the Ōamaru Top 10, next to the delightful Victorian-era Ōamaru Public Gardens.

Day 16 - Ōamaru to Ōmārama

Driving time: 2 hours/132km 

Gigantic rock formations, ancient cave art, rare wines and superb swimming are all on today’s menu. From Ōamaru, head towards Duntroon on rural backroads to reach Elephant Rocks. These shapely limestone outcrops form part of the UNESCO-listed Waitaki Whitestone Geopark, as explained at Duntroon’s Vanished World Centre. Look out for the Takiroa Māori Rock Art, a taonga/treasure of the Kāi Tahu people.

The Waitaki Valley produces world-class wines, including pinot noir, pinot gris and riesling, which you can sample at Valli and River-T Estate in Kurow. The valley is also notable for a series of hydropower lakes, popular for swimming and boating alongside simple lakeside campgrounds. Consider camping up around here or continue on to Ōmārama where the Top 10 Holiday Park offers good amenities in the vicinity of evening meals and amazing al fresco Hot Tubs.

Situated at a major touring highway junction,   is a great base for exploring the super-scenic Mackenzie country, highlights of which include the Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail – the longest of New Zealand’s Great Rides, which winds all the way from Aoraki Mount Cook village or Lake Tekapo to Ōamaru. Starting close to Ōmārama, the Sailors Cutting to Otematata section offers a taste of its epic landscapes on an excellent day-ride.

Worth a detour: Aoraki Mount Cook National Park

Driving time (each way): 1.5 hours/ 94km

With clear skies and time up your sleeve you’d be crazy not to venture into Aoraki/Mount Cook Village, or better still spend the night camped up beneath some of New Zealand’s highest peaks. The DOC national park visitor centre provides an excellent introduction which will leave you primed for fabulous walks, ranging from the relatively easy Hooker Valley Track to the more gnarly Sealy Tarns and Mueller Hut routes. With the weather gods on your side you’ll see Aotearoa’s highest maunga/mountain, known to Māori as Aoraki – ‘the cloud piercer’.  Worthy stops on the way to or from the village include Twizel township and Mt Cook Alpine Salmon.

Day 17 - Ōmārama to Wānaka

Driving time: 1.5–2 hours/114km

While you’re around Ōmārama, consider a bike ride or drive to Clay Cliffs to enter otherworldly ravines with pointy pinnacles (or hoodoos) created from layers of weathered silt and gravel. They’re quite the sight!

Buckle up for more natural wonders on the drive to Lake Wānaka, being sure to pause at the Lindis Pass summit to soak up views of the golden tussocklands and peaks. Having zig-zagged back down to Tarras you’ll reach another good pitstop, this one featuring coffee, cake and a shop selling spectacularly good woollens. New socks sorted, you’re ready to leg-it through to Wānaka, a hotspot for all-seasons adventures. 

The large Outlet Camp (closed May to mid-June) is a terrific spot to stay. Along with amazing views you’ll get peaceful, mostly off-road biking access to town via the Outlet Track which can also be walked, of course. What’s left of your day can be well spent venturing along the track, perhaps down to Albert Town where there’s a pub, shop and bakery open till mid afternoon. Mount Iron should also be on your hitlist. Atop the 240m-high rocky knoll there are views in every direction.

Day 18 - Wānaka

With 750km of walking trails, you’re spoiled for choice so be ready to dial into your style. For a decently challenging day mission, head up Roys Peak or Isthmus Peak – both 5–6 hour walks in steep terrain. More sedate but equally rewarding adventures include Diamond Lake and Rocky Mountain, but you may be equally as happy wandering around the town centre and lakefront.

Wildwire Wanaka is perfect for adrenaline-seekers looking for a buzz without big physical boundaries. It’s an achievable, guided cable-climb up a waterfall with spectacular views – we absolutely loved it.

All that fresh air and exercise will set you up to enjoy the local dining scene along with world-class local wines and craft beer available in bars and breweries.

If possible, extend your Wānaka stay to explore the likes of Mount Aspiring National Park, Lake Hāwea and a bunch of lovely bike trails. From easy to extreme – it’s got it all.

Day 19 - Wānaka to Clyde or Alexandra

Driving time: 1 hour/76–84km

Central Otago could easily eat up a week or three, but a couple of days will put you in the picture at least. Stop in Cromwell to stock up on stone fruit in season, noting that there’s also a Sunday farmers’ market from Labour Weekend to early March. The heritage precinct on the pretty Lake Dunstan shore is a must-visit, especially as it sports cafes and a spot of boutique shopping.

Wine-lovers can drive or cycle the Lake Dunstan Trail from there to Bannockburn where a bunch of cellar doors and the casual Bannockburn Hotel offer a taste of the terroir and more.

The Cromwell Gorge highway leads to Clyde and Alexandra – twin towns with plenty of history and hospitality. Between them stretches the River Track alongside the mighty Clutha Mata-au, which makes a great walk in either direction or turned into a cruisy 2–4 hour loop bike ride returning via the Otago Central Rail Trail.

Day 20 - Central Otago on wheels

Central Otago is a bikers paradise thanks to five Great Rides, world-class mountain biking and numerous backcountry trails – between them offering something for everyone along with easy bike (and ebike) hire, riding advice and shuttle transport.

Up there with the world’s best day-rides is the Lake Dunstan Trail, a magical mix of gorge and lake scenery on the journey between Cromwell and Clyde. Paulina’s Bar is a top spot for a post-ride pint and chips. Another option is to knock off a section of the Otago Central Rail Trail, perhaps the Poolburn Gorge and Ida Valley, with a visit to historic Hayes Engineering Works & Homestead factored in.

A grand day out could also be had on a driving tour around Central’s historic towns of Naseby, St Bathans, Ophir and Oturehua.

Worth a detour: explore more of Central by bike

Central Otago is one of New Zealand’s best places to go biking, with trails to suit all tastes and skill levels – from super-easy rail trails to extreme mounting biking up across rugged terrain. You could easily spend a week or two knocking off the trails, including the lesser-known Roxburgh Gorge and Clutha Gold Great Rides. Check out this intermediate-level seven-day biking itinerary and the region’s Trail Hub website for inspiration.

Day 21 - Clyde or Alexandra to Queenstown

Driving time: 1.5 hours/85–92km

Close your Southern Way loop by heading through to Queenstown via the seriously scenic Kawarau Gorge. Deep in its narrows, the Goldfields Mining Centre is well worth a stop to view goldrush-era relics and hear the hair-raising stories that go with him. You can even try your hand at panning for gold!

On reaching Gibbston’s wineries you could consider another cellar-door visit or two. Kinross is a great option, offering a range of Central’s premium wines alongside lovely food enjoyed either outside or in.

If something a bit more dramatic is more your style, why not top your road trip off with a bungy jump at historic Kawarau Bridge? By the time you’ve taken the leap – 43 metres above the swirling river below – you’ll have earned a relaxing evening back in Queenstown.