Waitaki Way
Exploring the Waitaki Way
If you're heading on a roadie up the coast from Dunedin, you're in for a treat. This southern stretch blends art-filled harbour towns, breathtaking coastline, fascinating nature and quietly charming heritage stops in the best possible way. From eclectic Port Chalmers to Oamaru’s blue penguins and Victorian Precinct, ancient limestone landscapes, New Zealand’s newest wine district and the breathtaking Lindis Pass, this drive has it all. Even better, it’s a route that knows how to feed you well - very well. Here are some essential food stops to factor into your journey.
A Taste of Dunedin
Dunedin delivers on the eating front any day of the week, but if you’re in town on a Saturday, the Otago Farmers Market is an absolute must. From fresh produce (Central Otago stonefruit, when in season, is some of the best in the country) to pies, top tier smoked salmon and even Syrian street food, it’s all here, set against the grand backdrop of Dunedin Railway Station. It would also be remiss not to sample the local beer while in town and Emmerson’s is the place to do it, with constantly changing innovative taps alongside its well-loved core brews. For an extraordinary dinner grounded in local produce and serious culinary skill, head straight to Moiety and surrender to the ‘just feed me’ menu for one of the best ways to experience Dunedin on a plate. Award winning for a reason.
The Coastal Drive
Leaving the city via Port Chalmers, head north past beautiful Blueskin Bay to join State Highway One. Most travellers make a beeline for the fascinating Moeraki Boulders, which is the perfect excuse to stop at legendary Fishwife, where perfectly golden fresh blue cod, crayfish and chips are always the order of the day.
Oamaru Uncovered
Oamaru makes an excellent overnight stop, with its blue penguin colony, Victorian Precinct and Steampunk HQ creating a delightfully unexpected mix of nature and culture. Drop by Craftwork, a Belgian-style nano brewery, for a pint, or visit The New Zealand Whisky Collection for a tasting flight (don’t miss The Oamaruvian, aged first in ex-bourbon barrels then in Central Otago pinot noir ones) Whitestone is home to some of New Zealand’s best-loved cheese (to have as a platter in the cafe or take on the road with you) and there are plenty of other eateries tucked among the impressive limestone buildings of the historic precinct.
Wine, Rivers & Omarama
As you leave Oamaru, follow the braided Waitaki River, where the Waitaki Whitestone Geopark offers a window into an ancient world; after all that stimulation, you’ll need sustenance, and a stop at River T Wines for a tasting and one of their famous platters is an excellent way to do this. The region’s limestone soils and long, hot summers create excellent growing conditions, producing wines with a terroir comparable to Alsace in France. If you’re staying overnight in Omarama, book dinner at Omarama Lodge for some great classical country cooking. The (very local) salmon is a standout, served as sashimi, freshly smoked on site or perfectly cooked as a main.
Scenic Drive to Wanaka
In the morning, the drive over the Lindis Pass is truly spectacular. Stop at the lookout to take it all in before descending into Wanaka. Local favourites here include Big Fig, the Brownston Street Food trucks and Arc, known for its cocktails and seasonal set menus shaped by what’s currently best from farmers, hunters and fishermen in the area.
Eating Through Central Otago
Central Otago is just up the road and naturally, you’ll want to sample some of its world-famous pinot noir. Carrick Winery is the perfect place to do it, with creative fine dining in the restaurant or relaxed wood-fired pizzas from the trailer outside, depending on your mood. The Packing Shed is another much-loved local haunt. Set among gardens and orchards, the fresh flavour-packed food is first-rate, but the appeal goes well beyond the plate, with fresh flowers everywhere, outdoor tables made for long, lazy lunches and one of the most welcoming vibes around.
Final Stop
If Queenstown is your final destination (you can fly out of there or take a different route back to Dunedin), there’s no shortage of good food in New Zealand’s favourite resort town. While everyone knows places like Amisfield, and at the other end of the scale, Fergburger, - two newer, slightly under-the-radar standouts are Swiftsure in Arrowtown, Man O’ War’s first and very successful venture outside Waiheke Island, serving bold, fun bistro fare, and Boat Shed Bakery. Located right on the water at the marina, this relative newcomer turns out exceptional pastries and sweets. Don’t miss the choux, crafted by a supremely talented Dutch baker whose creations rival your best Paris, Amsterdam and Berlin memories.
A Memorable South Island Experience
This is a journey where the food is every bit as memorable as the landscapes - the perfect South Island culinary meander. Factor in plenty of time for good eating, and take stretchy pants!
Inspiration
Expand your horizons by exploring ours, discover the regions and the multitude of experiences of the Southern Way.
